Bit of a blip with the weather at the start of May but back to climbing outdoors again.
Not sure where my head is at the moment when it comes to climbing (not a good sign in itself) but it feels like I’m on the verge of making some pretty fundemental readjustments on what I can climb. Climbing outdoors is very much about how confident you feel doing the moves and in your ability to place the gear. I’m becoming more confident in both and I reckon I’m beinging to see what other peopple mean when they talk about this effecting their ability to lead.
Yep .. reckon I’ve sprained the ligaments on the middle fingers on both hands (maybe the ring finger on my right hand and the index on both hands too).
Details of the injury and possible treatments can be found at:
www.climbinginjuries.com
Climbed at the Link last night.
Managed to climb the white 6C route clean 
This is only the second time ever that I’ve led a 6C clean (the last one was a stretching, thuggy route @ the Warehouse sometime in 2007). This route is vertically up a corner - it appealed to my strengths (ie not requiring out right finger strength, requiring some tactile thinking re: conserving energy and using available rests).
Also got a thumbs up for my climbing technique on an easy green 5C(?) overhanging route .. I reckon my bouldering practising technique @ lunchtimes and the confidence that I’ve gained from my first trip of the year outdoors last Saturday are both paying off and crossing over into my indoor leading
Had a bit of a revelation climbing last night .. was managing to move up the rock on the most marginal of holds (natural holds, vertical rock). Just kept on going .. felt great, no real effort .. just climbed them. Brilliant feeling.
I’m more concerned with training the vertical stuff at the mo’ cos that’s what I’ll be climbing outdoors. So I also lapped a very slightly overhanging (big holds though) 5c route .. maybe 5 times.
Next time will choose a 6a route and see how it goes.
Fingers and arms absolutely knackered this morning.
.. just not much loss of weight.
My body fat percentage is down (to approx 15% on my home scales and even if they’re not accurate I can tell just from looking that the fat is going) .. not bad considering I’ve always been in the high teens.
I reckon some of the fat has turned to muscle too. Not much but enough to make the diet have less impact on my weight.
Climbing is going well - managed to onsight an old nemesis (overhanging 6a+) and, apart from resting) managed to do a 6B overhanging arete down at the Link Center last night.
Hmmm .. two weeks of dieting and I’ve lost 1 bloomin’ lb!
Well that was hard work for not very much.
Back to the drawing board.
.. OK it was after climbing and I was probably dehydrated but what the heck, this is great news.
End of Day 9 (and, yes, I was very hungry).
Started a two week diet of just two breakfasts + one meal (and no snacks) per day as of last Monday.
Hard work but it’s having an effect.
It’ll be interesting to see how long I can go .. this is day three of two weeks. Doubt if I’ll do the two weeks without snacking or having an extra meal .. I guess if I get past, say, 10 days then willpower will keep me going till the end of the two weeks.
So .. getting to 10 days is the key.
It’s possible - just go to do it.
Managed to get half way up a 7B route this evening at the Link centre. Wow!