García dos is a 2 star 6a+ route in Sella, Costa Blanca, Southern Spain
I led this route in Spain last month and it’s probably the high light of my climbing career to date. I always tend to be a bit hard on myself when it comes to success (always finding ways I could improve, tending to over analyse) but this was a perfect 10. I’m still on a high some three weeks later.
The start was easy enough but quickly became quite technical for my feet. I can still see the small, rounded, side pull I’d just used for my right hand and thinking “Jeez, I’ve got to use that small vertical hold for my next foot hold using just body tension to make it stick .. here goes”.
After getting past that and onto easier holds I have a photo in my mind; of looking up and seeing the route moving straight up for another 6-7 metres and then on through an overhanging section. I thought “Jeez, if it’s this technical down here, what’s it going to be like up there in the overhanging section?” A quick mental slap, a sort of what-the-hell-do-you-think-your-thinking!Snap-out-it! kind of thing, and a bit of positive attitude thinking “If I’m going to abb off this route and loss some gear I may as well do it higher up” and I was climbing again.
Fortunately the climbing became easier as I moved into the overhanging section as the holds became more definite and apart from some faffing about up near the lower off I was over the difficult stuff.
But something had changed in me after I’d climbed this route. I’d climbed something that I didn’t think I could climb. I’d managed to just believe in my own abilities to get me through and it had worked. It showed me just how much I’d progressed in the last year and a half.
To use a really geeky quote from Morpheus in The Matrix “.., sooner or later you’re going to realize, just as I did, there’s a difference between knowing the path and walking the path.”
Sure with enough training and experience anyone can climb routes that they would have found “impossible” before and I realised that. But then knowing something and believing something are two different things .. and with climbing belief and mental strength is a pretty big part of the whole equation.
If you don’t see what I mean then a good example is:
If you had to walk across a plank that’s 20cm wide and 3m long and lying on the grass in your back garden you’d find it a piece of cake. You could probably hop, skip and jump across it without a thought.
Try doing the same thing 1km up in the air and its a different kettle of fish. But what’s really changed? Its still technically the same challenge and you know you can do it a 100 times and not fall off but .. could you do it?
The only thing stopping you would be a lack of belief in yourself*
* Okay, okay .. that and the fact that you’d be hard pushed to come up with a good reason why you’d want to cross a bloody plank 1km up in the air but you see what I mean.