Over the last month I’ve been training like crazy. But what does this mean though? It means that I’ve concentrated on putting in as much climbing milage as possible (indoors unfortunately). Not worried about the grades. Not worried about my leading/onsighting abilities. Just do as much climbing as possible. To start with it was extended Tuesday and Thursday evening sessions. But then I started to to include bouldering/traversing sessions during lunchbreaks.
The result?
.. I’m climbing worse that I have done for ages.
.. and that’s a bit annoying actually.
To make matters worse my fingers have started to feel very, very fragile. Not so much on the climbing (althought they do feel a bit trashed) but on just normal day to day stuff. On the right hand the 1st joint on the middle finger is the worst offender. It’s very easy to just knock it when playing with the kids == pain.
What to take from this?
It’s life Jim. I happen to have put on approx 1/2 stone in weight .. so of course that’s going to be an impact on my climbing. So it’s difficult to know the effect of the extra climbing regime until I can get my weight back down and compare like with like.
It’s all part of the cycle of training .. you try to improve one aspect but another aspect changes at the same time so it’ll always prove difficult to understand a dynamic system.
On a positive note I reckon my technique has come on a lot (esp. being more deliberate about my foot placements) and the realisation that I can choose to just keep on climbing even when the lactose levels in my forearms has reached burning point. All of that will prove useful.
So - what to do next?
Well I reckon I should concentrate on increasing my power/strength and reducing my weight over the next 6 weeks .. reckon it’ll mean I can make a real improvement on my climbing.
I’m also already looking forward to the outdoor climbing season - reckon I should concentrate on doing as many VS routes as I can get on to
I need to do as many as I can and I should stop itching after HVS routes .. they’ll come and it’s not like they’re going anywhere. I want to just get more milage under my belt.
New Years Resolutions
1. Over the last 2-3 months I’ve put on about 8 lbs (now weight 13st 4lbs) so planning on losing that in the next month or three and getting on down to 12st 10lbs.
2. My new contract is working in a place where the coffee is out of a dispensing machine
this has led to two mini resolutions:
- I’ve decided to cut the dried milk out of the coffee and just use the UHT - I reckon this is probably a wise move as I’m not sure how calorific the dried milk is.
- Start using the decaff version of the coffee (or at least alternate) as I seem to be drinking loads of cups at the moment.
3. I’ve come back, once again, to the realisation that to be able to climb harder routes I’ve got to be able to climb harder, individual moves. To climb harder moves I need more strength (or a better power to weight ratio). Therefore switching at least one session a week to “proper” bouldering and concentrating on POWER!
4. Come the new climbing season, get out there and climb as many VS routes as I can
5. Continue my exploration of the Wye Valley climbing opportunties.
6. I want to lose an additional few pounds of weight to help with point 3 but see point 1 first.